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How Much House Can I Afford? The Real Math Behind Home Affordability

Banks will approve you for more house than you should buy. Lenders focus on your maximum debt-to-income ratio; you should focus on what leaves room for retirement savings, an emergency fund, and a life beyond mortgage payments. The right number is almost always lower than what you’re approved for.

The 28/36 Rule: Your Starting Framework

The 28/36 rule is the gold standard for home affordability. It says your total housing costs should stay under 28% of gross monthly income, and your total debt payments (housing + all other debts) should stay under 36%.

28% Rule — Maximum Housing Payment Gross monthly income × 0.28 = Maximum PITI payment (Principal + Interest + Taxes + Insurance)
36% Rule — Maximum Total Debt Gross monthly income × 0.36 = Maximum total monthly debt (housing + car + student loans + credit cards)

Worked Example

InputAmount
Gross annual income$90,000
Gross monthly income$7,500
28% of gross monthly$2,100 (max housing payment)
Existing monthly debts (car + student loans)$500
36% of gross monthly$2,700 (max total debt)
Max housing payment (36% rule)$2,700 − $500 = $2,200
Binding constraint$2,100/month (lower of the two)

With a $2,100/month housing budget, 10% down, 7% mortgage rate, and estimated taxes and insurance, you can afford roughly a $300,000–$330,000 home. At a 6% rate, that stretches to about $340,000–$370,000. Rate differences matter enormously.

The True Cost of Homeownership

Your mortgage payment is just the beginning. The total cost of owning a home includes several recurring expenses that many first-time buyers underestimate.

Cost CategoryTypical AmountNotes
Mortgage (P&I)Varies by rate and termUse a fixed rate for predictability
Property taxes0.5–2.5% of home value/yearVaries dramatically by state and county
Homeowners insurance$1,500–$3,000/yearHigher in disaster-prone areas
PMI (if <20% down)0.5–1.5% of loan/yearDrops off at 80% LTV (conventional)
Maintenance & repairs1–2% of home value/yearBudget for this — it’s not optional
HOA fees (if applicable)$200–$500+/monthCheck for special assessments
Utilities$200–$400/monthLarger homes cost more to heat/cool

What Lenders Look At vs What You Should Look At

FactorLender’s PerspectiveYour Perspective
DTI ratioUp to 43–50% is approvableKeep under 36%, ideally under 30%
Reserves2 months minimum6+ months emergency fund, untouched
Maintenance costsNot consideredBudget 1–2% of home value annually
Retirement savingsNot consideredDon’t sacrifice 401(k) contributions for a bigger house
Lifestyle spendingNot consideredLeave room for travel, hobbies, kids’ activities

How Your Down Payment Affects Affordability

A larger down payment reduces your loan amount, monthly payment, and total interest paid. It also eliminates PMI at 20% or more. But don’t drain every account to hit 20% down — maintaining cash reserves and continuing to invest matters more than avoiding PMI.

PMI on a conventional loan typically costs 0.5–1.5% of the loan amount per year and automatically cancels when you reach 80% LTV. On a $300,000 loan, that’s $125–$375/month — meaningful but temporary. Run the numbers: sometimes putting 10% down and keeping cash invested earns more than the PMI costs.

Analyst Tip
Here’s the affordability test most people skip: can you handle the payment if something goes wrong? Stress-test your budget at the mortgage payment + $500/month. If that still works without dipping into emergency savings, the house is affordable. If it creates immediate stress, you’re buying too much. One job loss, medical bill, or major repair shouldn’t put your home at risk.

Key Takeaways

  • Follow the 28/36 rule: housing under 28% of gross income, total debt under 36%.
  • Lenders approve more than you should spend — their maximum DTI (43–50%) leaves no room for savings or life.
  • Budget 1–2% of home value per year for maintenance on top of your mortgage, taxes, and insurance.
  • Don’t sacrifice retirement contributions or drain your emergency fund for a bigger down payment.
  • Stress-test your budget: if you can’t handle the payment + $500/month for unexpected costs, buy less.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much income do I need to buy a $400,000 house?

With 10% down ($40,000), a $360,000 loan at 7% over 30 years costs about $2,395/month in principal and interest. Add taxes (~$400), insurance (~$200), and PMI (~$250), and your total PITI is roughly $3,245. At the 28% rule, you’d need at least $11,589/month gross income, or about $139,000/year.

Should I buy the most expensive house I’m approved for?

Almost never. Lender approval maximums assume every dollar above minimum debt payments goes to housing. They don’t account for retirement savings, maintenance, emergencies, or quality of life. Buy at 70–80% of your approved amount to maintain financial flexibility.

How do interest rates affect what I can afford?

Dramatically. On a $300,000 loan over 30 years, the difference between 6% and 7% is about $200/month — or $72,000 over the loan’s life. A 1% rate increase reduces your purchasing power by roughly 10%. When rates are high, buying a less expensive home and refinancing later is a valid strategy.

Does my spouse’s income count toward affordability?

If both spouses are on the mortgage application, both incomes count. However, both credit scores matter too — the lender uses the lower of the two middle scores for pricing. If one spouse has poor credit, it may be better to apply with only the higher-scoring spouse (using only that income for qualification).

Should I pay off debt before buying a house?

Pay off high-interest debt (credit cards) first — it improves your DTI ratio and credit score. For lower-rate debts (student loans, car payments), it depends. If paying them off would drain your down payment savings, the math may favor keeping the debt and buying sooner. Run both scenarios through the 28/36 framework.